Over-the-Rhine has become a whirlwind of activity recently. This in and of itself is not news, but it seems that just about every other month, something new has opened up in this historic landmark of a neighborhood. Bakersfield is one of the more recent additions to the quickly expanding restaurant district in Over-the-Rhine, having opened just after the New Year right next to Lavomatic on Vine Street.

 

 

 

 

I had heard a lot about Bakersfield before I was given the assignment to review it, but my expectations were tepid to say the least. Word on the street was that the food was good, but the dreaded “you pay for the atmosphere” review worried me. While I was excited to try it out, I wondered if a guy like me, who is hamstrung in his food choices by a pretty tight budget, would be able to enjoy the restaurant to the fullest. I couldn’t have been more wrong.

Bakersfield in Over-the-Rhine (Photo: J Shifman)

Describing itself as the place for tacos, tequila and whiskey, Bakersfield takes the form of an upscale but casual bar/ restaurant, making it a good fit with the rest of its neighbors, like A Tavola, Senate and Abigail Street. It was described to me as the perfect place to take a date, so I did just that. Taking in a serenely sunny evening last week, my girlfriend and I walked down to Bakersfield from our Prospect Hill house. While Bakersfield doesn’t take reservations, we got there early enough to snag one of the last tables. It was immediately obvious to us we were in for something special, because we could hear laughter from every table.

It took our waitress over 15 minutes to first arrive at our table, an old wooden barrel with two high top chairs, but once she did the fun began. We ordered drinks—waters and a huge pitcher of margaritas—and put in our food order: three tacos and tortas (tortas are essentially Mexican sandwiches).

The menu at Bakersfield (Photo: Rachel Rothstein)

While we waited for our food to arrive, I took a second to admire the rest of Bakersfield. A long bar stood against the sidewall, and picnic-style tables filled the front room. The Good, the Bad and the Ugly played on the TVs behind the bar, adding a bit of authenticity to the rustic feel. The menu also contributed to the overall feeling, right on down to the font, which was reminiscent of the Wild West.

By the time our food arrived we had both worked up quite a buzz from the margaritas. The tacos were arranged on a plate together while the tortas came alone. The tacos were no bigger than an orange, maybe three bites each, but the fillings were fresh and delicious. The real star of the meal were the tortas. The braised short ribs were dripping with juice, and the caramelized onions were perfect. Each bite was better than the last, and I soon forgot all about the tacos. While the tacos delicious and surprisingly filling, they were nothing in comparison to lusciousness that was the tortas.

Whoops, got a little excited about those tortas (Photo: J Shifman)

Of the tacos we ordered, the Pollo Verde was the best. The fresh chicken, mixed with pickled onions and cilantro, really popped. “It was the freshest chicken I have ever had in a restaurant,” Rachel said, and I whole-heartedly agreed. The Rajas taco, made with Portobello mushrooms and onions, was also very good, as was the corn based Huitlacoche taco. The variety of the menu is surprising, as the little building does not seem to have enough space for a kitchen that encompassing.

When we finished the meal, we stayed to chat with a couple familiar faces. As is usually the case in OTR, we ran into a couple of people we knew, who were also trying out Bakersfield for the first time. Their conclusion seemed to match our own: Bakersfield is definitely a hit.

Bakersfield is the perfect place to take a date. With drinks and tip, the final bill came in under $50, a modest total for Over-the-Rhine. As I stated early on, my budget is in no way robust. While I could not see myself dining at Bakersfield on a weekly basis, it is an excellent spot for fine evening out. In the end, the food feels fairly priced to me, and the atmosphere is an added bonus. I would surely recommend Bakersfield not only as a date destination, but also as a place to take out-of-town guests. It is a fine example of what Over-the-Rhine has to offer, and the owners really got it right. Try Bakersfield. You won’t be sorry.